Bergerac: A few good reasons (to visit)

The town of Bergerac (remember Cyrano de Bergerac?) lies west of Daglan, and I’ve learned that you can pretty much count on one and a quarter hours for the drive.

So it’s not a place we go on a whim (as we might, say, to Sarlat or Gourdon), but we do get to Bergerac fairly often. If you haven’t been, here are a few good reasons to go, including a new one (for me, anyway).

It’s a transport hub. The Bergerac airport is pretty much the centre of air traffic between the Greater Daglan Area and the U.K. My wife Jan and I flew from there on a recent trip to Southampton, en route to the Isle of Wight. This past Saturday, we drove our friends Joanne and Chris, and their daughter Eleanor, to a hotel in Bergerac where they would spend the night, before flying home on Sunday.

A restaurant we love. Since we knew we’d be in Vieux Bergerac on the Saturday, we made a reservation for lunch at a favourite restaurant, La Table du Marché. (See Helpful Note to Readers at the end of this posting.) There are other fine restaurants in the area, but we particularly like this one. Here’s how I described it in an earlier posting:

La Table du Marché is a relatively small restaurant, just across the street from the covered market (hence the marché) in the centre of vieux Bergerac. The style is contemporary, but comfortable. The chef and owner is a Parisian, Stéphane Cuzin, who learned his craft at starred restaurants in France and Belgium — and learned it very well. His food is clever, creative, fresh, and delicious.

It’s so good that on August 29 of last year, I posted “A chef who keeps upping his game,” to highlight just how inventive the chef is. This past Saturday, a lunch highlight for me was the main course of Cochon Ibérico, which I chose from the à la carte menu for 28 euros, and thought it was worth every centime. It was perfectly cooked, tender, and flavourful, with a sprinkling of crunchy salt and some nice accompaniments. Here it is:

Perfectly cooked pork, topped with a salty crunch.

A great place to shop. On the outskirts of Bergerac there’s a small plaza which contains, among other things, a specialized supermarket called Grand Frais. This is a food-only place — no laundry detergent, toilet paper, soaps and so on — and its focus is on high quality and a good selection. Here we find things we can’t seem to locate in supermarkets anywhere near us — fresh herbs, lemongrass, crayfish from Louisiana, and so on.

My latest discovery. This past Saturday, after dropping off our friends at their hotel, Jan and I went to the plaza with the Grand Frais store. While Jan was doing a light food shopping, I wandered into this wine shop (perhaps just 75 metres or so from the food store) and was, well, delighted. Here’s a look at the place:

At last — a wide choice of wines!

So, why was I so happy? Because, at last, I’ve found a wine store in the Greater Daglan Area that doesn’t focus on local wines. There were shelves with wines from all parts of France (clearly marked and well organized) and — get this — wines from other countries. Yes, countries that most French wine merchants have never heard of, like Italy and Australia. As you can imagine, Jan and I are planning a major dual-purpose shopping trip, to Grand Frais and the comptoir des vignes.

Helpful Note to Readers. If you haven’t already tried it, consider using the Search box at the right-hand top of this blog. It works very well. For instance, if you enter the words La Table du Marché (with the accent), you will be directed to all the blog postings I’ve written that include reviews, or even brief mentions, of the restaurant. The same goes for any other topic that interests you.

Posted in Food, French food, Holidays in France, Life in southwest France, Restaurants in France, Restaurants in the Dordogne, Wine | 4 Comments

The Pizza, the Mayor, and Me

I can’t say that I felt as if I had been transported to Naples, but I did have a pretty good pizza today, along with a handshake and warm welcome from Daglan’s Mayor, Pascal Dussol. Who also happens to be the guy who made the pizza. And is the guy who owns the restaurant.

Often, M. Dussol may be found at his desk in Daglan’s Mairie, or at official functions, like this one:

At this year’s May 8th ceremony.

But in non-official life, he owns a restaurant/pizzeria called L’Eole, which sits just outside the northern boundary of St. Cybranet, the first village north of Daglan. Here’s a look at the front of the restaurant:

At the front of the restaurant.

Today I arrived at about 12:30, and found that I was the only customer to that point. The hostess did look after me quickly and well, and I was soon relaxing with a kir, gazing out at the roadside vegetation. Here’s the view from my table on the large terrace:

Hello? Anybody home?

After my kir, I had a glass of rosé wine along with my choice of pizza, a Valenciana. It was covered with tomato sauce, cheese, slices of chorizo sausage, plus peppers and mushrooms. (I said “no thanks” to the egg that normally would be on top.) The pizza costs just 10 euros, and was fairly large. Here’s my plate:

Meet my egg-less Valenciana.

Eventually a couple arrived to eat on the terrace, and they were obviously good friends of M. Dussol, because he came out of the kitchen, wearing his chef’s apron, to chat with them.

Then he spotted me as I was finishing my lunch, and walked over to shake hands, welcome me, and wonder where my wife Jan was. (I explained that she was in Monpazier, lunching and shopping with friend Joanne.)

All in all, it was a pleasant break, and with the pizza, kir, glass of rosé and a coffee, it came to just 16.50 euros. So I left in a good mood, as I ventured out for some shopping of my own.

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The new British cooking (watch out, France)

You’ve probably moved beyond the stereotypes of British cooking. You realize that not all British food means over-cooked vegetables and grey meat, or fatty sausages topped with brown sauce.

On TV, you’ve probably come across Heston Blumenthal, Jamie Oliver, Tom Aikens, Rick Stein, Tom Kitchin and more. But have you experienced the new British cooking?

My wife Jan and I certainly did, on our recent long-weekend trip to the Isle of Wight. There we had a wonderful Saturday lunch with friends Elisabeth and Gerhard. We were at Thompson’s in the town of Newport, where the chef (and owner) is the youngest chef in the U.K. to have been awarded a Michelin star. (He earned his stars at other restaurants, before opening his own.)

Before we plunge in, let’s see how the U.K. stacks up in the Michelin universe. In the autumn of 2016, France led the way, of course, having 600 restaurants with at least one star (out of a maximum of three stars). Then came Japan with 419, Italy with 333, Germany with 290, and Spain with 174. But the U.K. had a very respectable 163.

So now to get up close and personal with the new British cooking at that restaurant in Newport. Here’s how it looks from the sidewalk:

Modest, but welcoming.

Thompson’s is a comfortable, relaxed kind of place, with an open kitchen. The four of us sat directly in front of Chef and his brigade as they worked:

The four of us sat right in front of the action.

Once we got settled with our apéritifs and reviewed our menus, we decided on the three-course lunch at 29 pounds. The tasting menu, at 49 pounds for the food alone and 79 pounds with wine pairings, looked tempting, but simply seemed like too much food.

Even so, we were given several amuse-bouches before the first entrée arrived. They included several light gougères au fromage, and then this bowl of minced ox tongue and potatoes. It was so good that Elisabeth said she would have been happy with just a larger bowl of the mixture for lunch, with no other dishes. Here’s my bowl:

Our tasty starter. (One of them.)

For my entrée, I ordered a “crispy poached duck egg” (a poached egg, lightly breaded, then deep-fried) over walnut mayonnaise with a scattering of green beans and a walnut vinaigrette. Here’s my dish:

A crispy poached egg? Yep.

Jan loves sardines, and so it was no surprise that she ordered this dish of grilled Cornish sardines:

Cornish sardines? Delish!

Sticking with seafood, for her main course Jan ordered the “day boat plaice cooked on the bone,” and seemed delighted with it. No wonder:

Jan’s cooked-on-the-bone plaice.

Gerhard, Elisabeth and I all ordered the “slow-cooked short rib of beef in treacle and beer,” served with a grilled shallot filled with a braised oxtail mixture, and topped with several crunchy onion rings. The beef was amazingly tender, and completely delicious. Here’s my plate:

For me, the beef was the star of the show.

For dessert, I chose this cherry and almond tart, which had a lovely taste and was topped with a scoop of ice cream (although I found the crust a bit hard and over-baked):

Delicious, but with a too-tough crust.

Jan’s choice, a peach and raspberry sundae, looked like an explosion of summer treats:

An explosion of summery tastes.

So after coffees, we left the restaurant feeling well fed and well cared for.

Now, how would I describe this particular version of modern British cooking? Well, it’s not really fine dining in the three-Michelin-star sense, but certainly it was fine and comforting food, carefully prepared and plated, delicious all around, and using fresh local ingredients wherever possible. Several dishes were clever, without being overly tricky. And the value was quite good, for such quality.

I had just two niggles. I found the shallot that came with the beef a bit dried out and tough; I think I’d substitute something like a wedge of acorn squash to hold the oxtail mixture. And the crust on my tart, as I wrote above, was a tad over-baked and therefore tough.

But this is a fine restaurant led by a very good chef, and I’d love to go back. I’d also recommend that a few chefs in the Greater Daglan Area have a visit, and see what their English counterparts are cooking up these days. They could learn a thing or two.

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Two classics and a contender

If you’ll remember yesterday’s posting (hey, it was only yesterday), you’ll know that my wife Jan and I had left Daglan last Friday. We were spending a three-day weekend with friends Elisabeth and Gerhard, and not incidentally, missing our village’s annual fête, which I call the Festival of Heat and Noise.

Where were we, you may have wondered, and what did we do?

Well, we went by plane to Southampton and then by ferry to the Isle of Wight, had a lot of fun, and consumed some great food and drink. Including a lunch where I enjoyed two British classics and a dessert that could become a classic.

The venue was an informal place on the waterfront of Ryde, on the Isle of Wight, called Three Buoys Restaurant (in TripAdvisor reviews, 74% of the ratings so far say Excellent, and another 18% say Very Good). We sat outside on the deck, overlooking the Solent (that’s the strait that separates the island from mainland England).

My entrée, so to speak, was that classic drink, the gin and tonic. This one was perhaps the best I’ve ever had, featuring the right amount of ice (1.2 metric tonnes), a slice of lemon, some juniper berries, and two great ingredients.

The real key was Monkey 47, a German gin described thusly on the menu: “47 botanicals make for an unrivalled complexity. Crisp with a sweet floral aroma.” To complement it, the restaurant’s knowledgeable and likeable manager recommended Fever-Tree Mediterranean Tonic, which turned out to be a perfect choice. Here is the first classic:

About as perfect as a G & T can get.

And what is more classic in Britain than fish and chips? I couldn’t think of anything, and so I simply had to have the Three Buoys’ gin-battered fish with lemon-salted chips and a few swirls of pea purée (the modern substitute for mushy peas, I suppose). It looked crisp and fresh and large and delicious, and it was. Here’s my plate:

Gin-battered? I’ll take it!

As for the contender to become a classic, it was the dessert. On one side of the plate, which was scattered with bits of honeycomb, there was a small terrine of chocolate and caramel mousse with fresh raspberries; on the other, a quenelle of rose ice cream. It was all delicious, but the surprising taste treat was the rose ice cream. Nice!

The ice cream was the surprise element.

So that’s it for classic British fare, for now anyway. In my next posting, I’ll review a place on the Isle of Wight where it’s all about being modern.

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Our parade on parade (time-delayed)

Last weekend, my wife Jan and I happened to be away during Daglan’s annual Fête de la Saint-Louis.

Ha! Okay, we didn’t “happen” to be away. We had carefully planned to miss what I call The Festival of Heat and Noise. In fact, we were actually out of the country, at the home of friends Elisabeth and Gerhard. (A good time was had by all, thank you.)

Our trip meant that we weren’t around for the one part of the festival we actually enjoy, which is the Sunday parade.

However, thanks to the miracle of our friend Chris Scott being in the village with not only his family but also a camera, I am able to bring you some highlights from the parade — whose theme was Le Cinema.

We begin with an overview, as the parade starts to enter Daglan, having crossed the Pont Neuf over the River Céou:

Rolling and marching into the village.

Since the theme of the parade was the cinema, it was natural that our village festival would honour that great festival of film which takes place every year on the Riviera:

All dressed up to honour film.

Yes, it was the 69th edition of the Festival de Daglacannes (possibly not the cleverest name, but nice try):

The hosts of the film festival, at work.

French films were honoured in the parade, of course, like the 1962 comedy classic The War of the Buttons (a classic I had never heard of, I confess):

A French favourite.

You don’t have to have an elaborate float to take part in the village parade, of course. Just ask these guys:

Yes, the Blues Brothers.

I’m not sure what film these soldiers represented — Saving Private Ryan? — but they were two handsome guys and they were handing out sausage to the crowd, so what the heck:

Soldiers on parade.

Then there was everyone’s friend Batman, flanked by two of his own friends:

Yep — the Caped Crusader.

Of course the film colossus known as the Star Wars franchise had to play a big part in Daglan’s parade, and it did. Here’s the tractor that was pulling the main Star Wars entry, proclaiming that “On the planet Daglan, the Rebellion is fighting against the Empire and the Siths.” (Who knew?)

La planete Daglan?

And here’s a look at the main float itself, which appears to show how the movie was filmed:

Everyone loves Star Wars!

Everyone has their favourite character or characters in Star Wars, but I suppose Luke Skywalker is an obvious choice:

Smiling as if the Force was indeed with him.

Every movie needs at least one villain, and Darth Vader is probably one of filmdom’s all-time meanest:

What’s that sound of heavy breathing?

Now you’ve certainly heard of the Pirates of the Caribbean series of films, but did you know that our parade featured the Pirates of the Céou? Yes indeed, and featured at the very top was none other than Daglan’s Mayor. Here’s the ship, with its crew:

Yo ho ho!

I confess I have no idea what film this next float was meant to represent, but it’s obvious that the generation of foam was an important element, at least for the sake of the parade. (After this was published, our good friend Dave in Toronto suggested that this float probably referenced the French comedies, Camping 1, Camping 2, and Camping 3, in which Patrick was a main character. I didn’t know the films, but after some digging, I believe that Chief Trader, Dave’s Contrada name, is right on.) Anyway, here it is:

Out comes a river of foam.

Evidently, the river of foam kept right on coming, until the main street was covered with it:

Behold our foam-filled village.

Having your main street covered in foam is, for many, a chance to celebrate. And that’s how I’ll close this posting, with final thanks again to Chris for the photos, and to our spunky little village for throwing itself so enthusiastically into this annual event:

Jumping for joy in all the foam.

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Remembrances of parades past

In my last posting, I previewed what you might enjoy in this coming Sunday’s parade in Daglan. Posted on August 13, it was called “Lights! Camera! Action! (Our parade). ”

The Sunday afternoon parade each August is one of the highlights of our village’s four-day summer festival. (Okay, for me, it’s the only highlight). And the theme of this year’s parade, you may recall from my August 13th posting, is Le Cinema.

Today I’ll look back over a few of the parades of recent years, remind you of their themes, and show off some of my favourite entries. In other words, a hit parade of parades.

Let’s start with last year, when the parade was given the immodest theme of Les civilisations, thus allowing the entrants a lot of scope to deal with ancient history.

An obvious candidate was Ancient Egypt, whose entry featured our Mayor dressed as a Pharaoh. Here he is in person, chatting with my wife Jan (on the right) and another villager:

Mr. Mayor, as a Pharaoh, meets some subjects.

Another culture from long ago, featured in the 2016 parade, was the group we know as Vikings. And here are some of them, paddling  or poling their way through the main street of Daglan:

These guys managed to look fairly authentic.

The 2015 parade, in contrast, had a more modern (and more limited) scope, since the theme was the history of the automobile. This was probably my least favourite parade of recent years, since I don’t think the parade-makers were able to flaunt their creativity as spectacularly.

Still, there were a few good sights — including our Mayor (once again), this time dressed up as the Michelin Man. Have a look:

The Michelin Man, officially called Bibendum.

For the 2014 parade, the organizers offered the theme Carnaval, which allowed for a lot of creativity, with the chance to feature cultures from all around the world. Like, for instance, China:

The traditional dragon leads the way.

For sheer flamboyance, the Brazilian entry in the 2014 parade was the winner. It goes to prove that when you give some Daglan residents the chance to wear feathers and tight clothes, and dress in drag, they go all out, like this:

The Brazilian float in full swing.

But for a few reasons, I think my favourite parade of recent years was the one in 2013, when the theme was La Pub. I should explain that the phrase, in French, doesn’t refer to British taverns,  but rather to publicity, or advertising.

That theme gave parade-makers a lot of latitude to be creative while promoting, or making fun of, well known products. But there was another element to the 2013 parade — the buzz of local politics, including a few swipes at the village’s then-Mayor, a dour woman who brought to her post all the flair and warmth of a constipated actuary.

For instance, here is a huge boat with fishermen on top, representing a brand of canned fish.  On the ends of their fishing rods were actual fish (salmon, as I recall), which they swung over the heads of the onlookers. However, as they passed the office of the Mayor, they made a point of slamming the fish against its windows. And here are the fishermen, hugely enjoying themselves:

Fishermen working the crowd in Daglan.

Best of all, I think, was the entry designed to look like a well-known brand of laundry detergent. Not terribly amusing in itself, but there were some not-so-subtle messages on the box. One was the reference to “0% alcohol,” which was a dig at the local administration for cracking down on the sale of beer and other alcoholic beverages at various festivals and events. Here’s the entry, with the alcohol-free notice on the front of the package:

The OMO float — centre of attention at the parade.

For the 2013 parade, I actually posted twice — once on the parade as I first saw it, and again when some of the political messages became clearer. In that second posting, I wrote that:

… I pointed out that the front of the laundry soap package on the float said “0% alcohol.” What I missed at the time, however, were the words that you can just barely see on the side of the float: Promo. Printemps 2014. Grand lessivage.

Translation: “Special Offer. Spring 2014. Big clean-up.” In other words, “Look for a big cleaning out of the civic administration during next spring’s elections.”

Flowing out from the OMO entry was a flood of foam, that eventually pretty much covered the entire street. Here’s how it looked:

Care for a beer? Just wade through the foam.

Can we expect more local politics in this year’s parade? We’ll have to wait and see. Interestingly, the message on the side of the OMO box turned out to be prophetic — there really was a massive change in the village council, during the election of 2014. You just never know.


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Lights! Camera! Action! (Our parade)

The possibilities are mind-boggling: Monsieur Hulot’s Holiday in the  GDALast Year in Monpazier. L’Age d’or à Daglan. The Umbrellas of Castelnaud. Hilsenheim mon amour.  And of course, Last Tango in Daglan.

Yes, it’s time to celebrate films in our village, all because of our annual August fête. Officially, it’s the Fête de la Saint-Louis, although my wife Jan and I like to think of it as The Festival of Heat and Noise.

The one element of the four-day fun-fest that Jan and I actually enjoy is Sunday’s Défilé de chars, or parade with floats. Which always has a theme, to inspire the float-makers and marchers and to amuse the spectators. And this year, it’s Le Cinema (to put that in English, it’s The Cinema).

Here is the full program, as posted on the front of the village’s convenience store, and photographed today in real time by me:

All the festival details.

Boiling all that down a bit, the highlights are: A dinner and music on Friday night; a dinner and a concert on Saturday night; the parade on Sunday afternoon and fireworks at night; and a Bal musette on Monday night. (The Monday bicycle race of years past clearly has disappeared from the program.)

The festival comes at a time when the crowds, and the temperatures, are usually at their summer peaks. Here’s a look at our weekly market this morning, which was pretty much packed with visitors:

Market activity in Daglan’s square.

Here’s another look at the market action. In the background, you may be able to see a yellow banner, fluttering from one of the buildings near our convenience store. These banners are all through the village, and each one shows the theme of a previous festival parade.

High up, in the background, a banner.

The banners showing each year and that year’s parade theme can be seen all over the place — as you’ll see in this view up the Rue de la République:

Yellow banners are all over the place.

And what’s so good about the Sunday parade? Well, a bunch of stuff. (1) It can get pretty whacky. Lots of guys in the GDA, for instance, seem to like dressing in drag. Go figure. (2) It’s often pretty creative. Some of the work that goes into the floats is amazing. (3) The atmosphere is all about fun. This is an event for the whole family, so if you’re in the area and are vacationing with kids, be sure to visit. (4) It’s free. What else is there to say? Well, I suppose you could shout: “Lights! Camera! Action!”

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