It’s always a bit nervous-making when you recommend something strongly to friends — whether it’s a movie, a book, a restaurant, whatever. You wind up hoping like heck that you didn’t oversell, and that they’ll enjoy it as much as you did.
So we were a tiny bit nervous when we suggested to friends Nancy and Iain (on the basis of just one previous visit) that the four of us have lunch at Les Glycines. The hotel-restaurant is in Les Eyzies-de-Tayac-Sireuil (although Les Eyzies will do), about 45 minutes from Daglan. Fortunately, it turned out just fine, and we were four happy campers.
I wrote about Les Glycines, which has been newly renovated, when my wife Jan and I discovered it and had a wonderful lunch a couple of months ago (“Our Great Escape, and great discovery,” posted June 20). We thought it was worth sharing, and so the four of us headed there yesterday for what turned out to be a very tasty lunch.
As an entrée, both Iain and I had l’ouef cocotte aux truffes d’été, crème de champignons — that is, an egg that’s baked inside a jar with mushroom cream sauce and loads of sliced summer truffles. It’s a really mouth-watering dish, the kind that makes you want to dip bread into the sauce as often as you can, until every last drop is gone. Here’s my jar of egg-truffle-sauce mixture:
For my plat principal, I ordered the veal liver, which was to be served with a raspberry vinegar sauce and whipped potatoes. The sauce was dark (as you can see in the photo below) and absolutely delicious, although I was not impressed with the liver itself — the meat seemed a bit overcooked and crumbly in texture, rather than being firm.
To the four of us, this suggested that the liver had previously been frozen, so I asked our server about it, who promised to ask the chef. She returned with the answer that the liver had not been frozen, but was from milk-fed veal, which accounted for the different texture. I remained unconvinced, but finished it all because the sauce, as well as the potatoes, were so good. Here’s my plate (on which you’ll see that the only green vegetable in sight is the parsley that’s been chopped into the sauce):
The main courses for everyone else seemed to be hits — a chicken stir-fry for Nancy, a sauté of lamb for Iain, and a risotto with large shrimp for my wife. In fact, Jan said it was the best risotto she has had to date in France.
For our desserts, both Iain and I ordered a French classic, the Paris-Brest pastry that I had tried on our first visit to Les Glycines. It’s a ring of choux pastry, filled with praline cream, and in this version, topped with bits of browned walnuts and dusted with icing sugar. Here’s mine:
On the way back to Daglan, we stopped to chat with a Belgian artist who lives in the artistic community of Meyrals. It turned out that she’s been looking for someone she can rely on to frame paintings and engravings without taking forever, and we were happy to recommend Marc Baudoin, a talented encadreur (frame-maker). His shop is in Gaumier, which as you just might possibly remember is the destination in Radio Free Daglan’s Bike Route No. 3.
I have to say that it’s great when you know enough to make some local connections.